So, I love our semi-abstract method of zone maps in Fate, but playing and running (far more run than play) 4e has left me a little bit bitten by the maps-and-minis bug. There are times when I’d like to see Fate happen with  a little more of a rooted, concrete, tactical map-reality.

So that’s been banging around in my head. How to do it?  Pretty easily.

Two rules, up front, then I’ll explain:

  • One zone = 5 squares.
  • Single target = Add 2 more squares.

That’s all it takes. These proceed from the notion that each character stands at the center of a 5 square by 5 square “zone”.

The second rule comes from what that implies: any square within two squares of the character’s position is within that 5×5 zone.

Combine them and you get these effects:

  • If you’re going to move one zone, move up to 5 squares on the map.
  • If you’re going to move more than one zone (e.g., sprint), multiply that by 5 squares and that’s how far you can move.
  • If you’re making a melee attack, you can attack a character within 2 squares of your position.
  • If you’re using a weapon that lets you attack someone in an adjacent zone, you can attack a character up to 7 squares away. (Think about it: the next zone over has a center that’s 5 squares away from yours. Anything within 2 squares of that zone’s center is within that zone, so “one zone away” is anywhere between 3 and 7 squares away from you. Therefore, the range in squares of a single-target weapon with a range of one zone is 7 squares. Two zones is 12, three zones is 17, etc.)
  • If you’re using an attack that “affects all targets in a zone”, then take its range (say, 2 zones), multiply by 5 (so, 10 squares), and that’s how far you can place the center of the 5×5 square effect. (You don’t get the +2 squares for placing the center because the 5×5 square would reach beyond the maximum single target range.)

Once you’ve got something like this going you can start looking at appropriating some of 4e’s map movement notions into stunts, introducing pushes and pulls and attack-of-opportunity rules and whatnot if you really want to get hackin’. At the least, you could add a “zero-zone move” to the vocabulary — since “the same zone” is within 2 squares of your current position, you could introduce a rule that allows the character to move up to 2 squares without taking the -1 penalty for a supplemental move action.

But even without that, the hack lets you make use of all those maps you’ve got stacked up for your maps-and-minis gaming, which for me and that map bug that done bit me is potentially really nice.

I’m also intrigued by the notion that this means the dividing lines between zones are more flexible and are relative to each character in this model. Each character is at the center of his or her own 5sq x 5sq zone, so the dividing lines for that guy who’s three squares away from me don’t fall in the same places.

If anyone gets a chance to try this out at home, let me know how it goes. :)

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Not sure about coming to the dice assembly party on November 20th?

Here are some other people who have at least tentatively suggested they’ll be there, too:

  • Chad “Robot From The Future Powered Only By Beer” Underkoffler, author of Swashbucklers of the 7 Skies, and setting scholar for the Dresden Files RPG
  • E. Foley, aka @geeksdreamgirl
  • Dave Chalker, aka DaveTheGame, Editor-In-Chief of Critical-Hits.Com
  • Adam “His Mad Layout Skills Give Me Something To Aspire To” Jury, of Posthuman Studios, the publishers of Eclipse Phase
  • Matt “It’s His Fault!” Gandy, my longest-standing gaming buddy from high school and incidentally Evil Hat’s semi-secret ace in the hole

I’m really looking forward to it. How about you?

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Nov 082010
 

Folks sending RSVPs to the dice assembly party: I screwed up the email address.

If you sent to feedback@gmail.com, it did NOT reach me.

The correct address is evilhat at gmail.

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If you’re in the DC area and would like to help Evil Hat assemble its order of Wizard Fudge Dice (now up for preorder), we’d love to have you!

We’ll be having the “party” (labor collective!) on Saturday, November 20th starting at 2pm and running until “whenever”.

We’ve got about 2000 sets to assemble, and it takes about an hour for 1 person to pack up 100 of them, so that’s 20 man-hours of effort to fill. We figure the more, the quicker, so do come on over any time between 2 and 6pm. We will likely carry on past 6pm, but we figure that’s about the latest someone can show up and us still be in the process of working on the assembling (fingers crossed).

To thank the folks who help we’ll be offering free pizza, free dice, and a few mystery prizes from Fred’s shelves-full-o’-comps. Please bring clean hands, a willingness to work, and your beverage of choice. Also bring any games you’d like to play in the after-assembly wind-down part of the evening. Rob Donoghue and Fred Hicks from Evil Hat will be there, so if you want them to scrawl messily on your books and thereby add or subtract whole pennies from their eBay resale value, don’t hesitate to bring that stuff too!

If you are interested in coming, please let us know (so we can get a headcount for the pizza and so we can tell you how to get to Fred’s house in Hillandale, Maryland). Drop a line in email to evilhat [at] that there gmail thing to let us know. Instructions will (eventually) follow!

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So we are working on getting our “Wizard Fudge Dice” product out there, which will include a preorder as soon as I can feel solid on a timeline for their deployment. They’ll be a 3-color, 12-die set priced at $13. The end result will look something like this:

So what goes into that?

First you get a mold made by your die manufacturer. This will cost you a few thousand dollars. In our case, Grey Ghost Games had the mold made, so we are paying them a few cents per die extra instead of paying the mold cost.

Once the manufacturer has the mold, they can process your order, which will need to be a few tens of thousands to be worth their while. In this case we had ten thousand of each color made for a total north of $4000. (Depending on materials and other factors your cost per die will probably come in in the mid teens of cents per die.)

Your dice will arrive in boxes like these that’ll weigh a good forty odd pounds each:

I say “arrive” like that’s just the next step and it’s easy, but that’s not so. Your manufacturer is likely overseas, and the slow boat from China is not a myth, and customs is no joke. I confirmed my order in terms of materials and colors around, I think, May… And got the dice in late October. This isn’t POD, and as such you’ll be facing reality based timelines of six months on production as often as not.

Inside those boxes will be these plastic wrapped blocks of 200 dice to a block, each block weighing shy of two pounds.

So now you have your dice, and you’re ready to roll, right? Nope. Packaging, my friend, packaging. In this case we are talking about those black capped “crystal” plastic display boxes that can hold 12 per box. They will run you 40 to 50 cents per, if you’re doing 30,000 dice you’re looking for 2500 of them. Your manufacturer for those can take a month to get them done, if you don’t have a supplier who already has them on hand.

You’ll get a few boxes full of boxes that look like this, plus separate smaller boxes with the black plastic lids in them.

And don’t forget the little paper inserts for the boxes to identify your product. Bring a file of em to your copy shop of choice, about 25 per page, and have them print 100 copies and do the cutting for you, 30 or so bucks and a few days.

Now you have most of your physical components, so you’re done.

Except for the procedural stuff.

You need to do assembly, which hopefully you can finagle friends into doing for you with bribes of pizza and free dice. I’ll be trying the finagle thing in another couple weeks, on a free weekend after I’m sure to have gotten all of the plastic boxes I need (haven’t yet).

You’ll also need to figure out how to pack these things (and in what size boxes) in order to minimize breakage and scuffing in transit. That’s another cost that I don’t have a number on yet.

Also factor in the time and monetary costs for your shipping. It’s possible you’ll be doing this more than once. Add a week and the cost of shipping for each time. In my case, shipping comes to me (site of assembly) and the ships again to the warehouse that handles filling orders.

So far, that’s about what it looks like what goes into it.

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